Spinning Plates (2012) – Documentary Review

Director: Joseph Levy
Writer: Joseph Levy
Runtime: 93 min
Rating: G

Art comes in all kinds of forms. At The Arts Guild, we have reviewed traditional art such as film, theatre, music, and visual art, as well as some less conventional forms such as fashion and literature. The new documentary Spinning Plates by director Joseph Levy presents two forms that one may not immediately associate with art: food and non-fiction filmmaking. This fascinating film offers a glimpse into the lives and kitchens of three very different chefs, and reveals the beauty behind the art of cooking, and the documentary.

Spinning Plates focuses on three restaurants and the people behind them. Alinea, boasting head chef Grant Achatz, presents a modernist gourmet culinary experience and has been named the Best Restaurant in North America. Breitbach’s Country Dining has been a family owned and operated community meeting place for over one hundred and fifty years, and still serves up buffet-style Southern cooking to huge crowds each week under the ownership of Mike Breibach. Finally, La Cocina de Gabby, owned by Francisco and Gabby Martinez, is a struggling home style Mexican restaurant that only recently opened its doors. Each story is very different, but all reveal the hidden strategies, procedures, and emotions behind the food within each restaurant, and become all the more fascinating when set against each other in intercutting scenes.

When watching this film, one is immediately struck by the gorgeous soundtrack and beautiful lighting that accompanies each careful shot. Although this work may be non-fiction, it is far from cold or clinical, as each moment is imbued with emotion and detail. The stories of each individual are suspenseful and real: while one man battles career-threatening tongue cancer whilst on a quest for the elusive Three Michelin Star rating, another faces devastating fire and prepares for the challenge of serving Mother’s Day meals, and a third struggles simply to survive and provide for his daughter in the face of a failing business and devastating poverty. A sweet love story even makes an appearance. This film does not require the magic of fiction to be dramatic and emotional, as the true tales of individual, community, and family draw one in and create an investment.

Spinning Plates is, in no uncertain terms, a highly entertaining piece of film. This work reveals not only how food can be performance, but also how documentary can be art. Although some featured restaurants may seem to be more traditional than others, all offer a new way of considering food and the restaurant business. The film is gorgeous to look at, and resonates on an emotional level, as individuals must overcome sickness, poverty, and devastation in order to succeed. This film definitely changed the way I look at documentaries; perhaps it will affect the way we look at food and restaurant dining as well.